OLIVES AND ALMONDS

“Have you eaten at the Tuckers recently?”

“You mean the olives and the almonds?”

“Every fucking time. That’s all you get until dinner.”

Well, it’s true. I don’t like to stuff people before I feed them. I want that feeding-the-pirhanas feeling when I bring the pasta out. Forks flashing. That kind of thing. I have no interest in serving food to full people.

So, we put out a bowl of olives – usually the “festive mix” or whatever it’s called, from Fairway, or those big, fat Sicilian olives, a bit lighter green in color, meaty and briny.
Then a bowl of almonds, roasted and salted. That’s it. Oh, and a little bowl for the olive pits. And something to drink.
Last night we had some friends over – just the four of us – and I made my spaghetti alle vongole. I know, I’ve already written about that dish at least once before — but good things should be enjoyed often. This time, being winter, I did it without tomatoes, which were added in August in homage to the pomodorini ripening in our Umbrian garden.

Jill made her green beans in lemon-parmigiano dressing over arugula, which was a perfect complement to the pasta with clams.
And we were all nicely hungry when the food was served. I think it’s the way to go.

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TWO JILLS AND A JOE

 

A few weeks ago Jill and I bumped into Jill O’Hara, who is a pal of ours from back in our early days in New York. It turns out she reads the blog and is a big foodie and she proposed a day down in Chinatown for lunch and shopping. So today, Jill (my Jill) and I subwayed down to Grand Street to meet Jill (O’Hara). She had a whole agenda, which included shopping both Chinese and Italian and a movable feast of a lunch, bopping from once Chinatown jewel to another.
We started at DiPalo’s, the estimable Italian store on Grand Street. We met Lou DiPalo, who’s a friend of Jill’s. He also has a house in Umbria that’s just down the strada from where we are, so we had lots to talk about. He gave me a taste of what he called, “winter parmigiano” – “A softer, sweeter taste,” said Lou. And so it was. So it still is, as I bought a nice chunk to take home. It’s not just the taste of this cheese that’s so delectable. It’s also the color. You can see exactly how good it tastes. I hope the photo does it justice.
Then we crossed the crowded street to a Malaysian place called Nyonya. Jill said they had these Indian pancakes with curry dipping sauce that would be a great start to lunch.
They’re called Roti Conai and they’re fabulous. The batter gets all puffed up and scorched when it hits the hot fat, so the texture’s like a crispy, chewy naan-like thing — light as can be, but still substantial. You just tear a piece off with your hands and swirl it around in the curry dipping sauce (which has some potato and chicken chunks lurking at the bottom). Superb.
Then we elbowed our way through a couple of Chinese markets, blown away by the variety of edibles, awed by the concept of fried chicken feet and stupefied by the prices. Salmon filet for $5.50 a pound?
The next lunch stop was Big Wing Wong at 102 Mott Street. Jill (O’hara) said we had to try the wonton soup with roast pork and the Singapore noodles, both of which were indeed great. The wontons were stuffed with ground pork and made for a very tasty mouthful. Jill (my Jill) had braised tofu with black mushrooms that was delicious. Yes, I did have some and it was delicious.
We had to wave O’Hara off her next stop, which was a dumpling place, because we were fully sated. And it was nap time. But we’re making plans for our next foray with her. She says we’ve barely scratched the surface.

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VEGAN SCHMEGAN

I got an email from my friends, George and Mariane, who have recently retired to Santa Barbara. They’re both excellent cooks and George has been experimenting with how to make American pork chops taste good. George and Mariane were neighbors of ours in Umbria; they had lived there for years before we ever got there — and they understand pork and how to cook it. The problem in the States is that pork has been marketed to us as a virtually tasteless meat – “the other white meat” – which is not a very nice expression if you think about it. If someone called you that in the gym or—god forbid – on a date, things could come to blows.
“The other white meat” means as tasteless as American chicken, whose meat has become either a neutral carrier of sauce or a dieter’s obligatory protein source. It doesn’t signify something that makes your mouth water.
George’s idea is to stuff his pork chops with the taste of pork – bacon, to be specific – as well as other herbs, bread crumbs and — in his recipe — some previously poached quince that they had sitting in the fridge. In my version, I passed on the quince because, first of all, I couldn’t find any at this time of year and secondly, I’m not a big fan of mixing meat and fruit. I know, many people love it. Just not me.
George buys thick chops – an-inch-and-a-half thick, he says – and rubs them with a collection of herbs from his Santa Barbara garden and let them sit for four hours or so, covered.

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Then he fries up a little cut-up bacon – just nicely rendered, not crisp – and tosses some panko crumbs into the bacon and its fat. Then he cuts a pocket in the chop and stuffs it with the fatty, crumby, bacony and, in his version, quincy mixture. In my version, the stuffing contains the bacon, the crumbs, some chopped garlic, sage and chives. Be creative. The bacon and its fat are key.
Then George sears the bacon-stuffed chops in olive oil and cooks them for four minutes a side, which he says leaves them just perfectly pink, moist and tasty. Yes, I said pink.  No need to cook pork to death. Trichinosis has not been a threat in this country for many years.
I overcooked my chop slightly, not believing that it was quite done. I should have trusted George.

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AFTER THE GIANTS GAME –REDUX

grande blu di patate

This week’s playoff game occurred on the very day of our son Max’s 30th birthday, which complicated things for the old Couch Potato. I couldn’t very well opt out of the party for a sporting event that was a complete non-event for everyone else in the family – especially for Max’s mom, my beloved wife, for whom a football game is thought of as an opportunity to go through her closet.
Jill planned a beautiful day for Max. It’s a big birthday for both of them — she was, after all, as much a participant in the event thirty years ago as he was, having been in labor together for twenty-nine-hours.
You don’t forget a thing like that.
Max had mentioned a few weeks before that he was getting into classical music again (Max is a musician), so Jill scored three tickets to a concert at Merkin Hall on 67th Street – with members of the New York Philharmonic playing. I was the holder of the third ticket. The concert started at 3:00; kickoff was 4:30. And we were booked for a 6:30 dinner with Alison and Shannon joining us. Between the two events, I would miss most of the game. The obvious answer was TIVO, but I can’t get interested in a game that’s already over – even if I don’t know who won.
Over is over.
I started my negotiations early, casually mentioning that the Giants play-off game was starting at 4:30, but that it was okay, my son’s 30th birthday surely took precedence. I would be happy, I said, to miss the game.
Now Jill was guilty. Step one.
An hour later, Jill started calling Max. He had been up for something like 40 straight hours over the weekend, playing a gig on Friday night until around 2:00 A.M. and then deciding to just stay up until 4:30A.M. to start his Saturday deliveries. He’s drives a truck to support his music. Anyway, the truck wouldn’t start in the cold, he had to get a tow, etc. It turned into an all-night, all-day mess and now, on Sunday, his birthday, he was properly sleeping it off.
“All I’m getting is his answering machine,” said Jill, getting nervous. “I don’t think he’s going to make the concert. And you want to watch the game. I feel like an idiot.” “No, baby, I’ll go to the concert with you. You said we should hear more good music, so we’ll do it.”
“You’ll fall asleep.”
Well, she had me there. There something in classical music that stimulates an area in my cortex – the lower, lower cortex, actually – that I find very spiritually relaxing. I’m special that way.
“The game doesn’t start until 4:30,” I said. “Why don’t I first-act the concert and leave at intermission?”
“What about Max’s ticket?”
“Maybe he’ll show. You never know.”
Then Alison called about dinner.
“You know, Shannon will want to see the end of the game. Could we make Max’s birthday dinner later? Like 8:00?”
Perfect. We could. We did. We ate at Recipe, on Amsterdam Avenue and 82nd Street, a wonderful addition to our neighborhood. Recipe specializes in comfort food of a very high level – lots of wonderful stews and roasts with locally-grown braised root vegetables in the winter. Jill had the pumpkin gnocchi with root vegetables. The boys had the lamb chops with lentils, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, etc.
Alison went for the short ribs.
Jill enjoyed the concert as best she could. There was an empty chair to her right (Max’s), a snoring husband to her left and three unruly children behind her, one of whom was kicking the back of her chair all through the Mozart. She’s always had amazing concentration.

The Giants won big.
As a former cheesehead, I will not gloat.

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*A new addition in my Links & Friends!*

Experiencing Umbria

Discover the joys of Umbria through culinary tours, villa rentals and photography workshops.
Nestled just outside the tiny town of Cannara, the Villa Fattoria del Gelso is a fully restored 17th-century farm villa that is available for rental and that serves as headquarters for fabulous food and wine tours led by owners Bill and Suzy Menard, who also own Bella Italia, the popular Italian specialty shop in Bethesda, Md.

In addition, the villa hosts the annual spring and fall Umbria Photo Workshops, led by husband and wife photographers Frank Van Riper and Judith Goodman, co-authors of the internationally bestselling book Serenissima: Venice in Winter.

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