The local abomination.
One of the defining traditions of life in New York City is the corner bodega. It’s an iconic representation of the melting-pot mentality that helps to set off New York from the cookie-cutter chain stores of suburbia. I use the word bodega loosely because although it began as a Hispanic institution, its Moms and Pops now include proprietors of many cultures. To qualify as a real bodega it must be on your corner – not in the middle of the block; it must carry milk, juice, slightly stale Kaiser rolls and any other necessity you may have forgotten when you were shopping at a real store – and the first language of the person
behind the counter must not be English. That’s a bodega.
Imagine my shock when I was strolling up Columbus Avenue last week only to discover a shiny new 7-11 on the corner at 89th street. A 7-11! The Anti-Bodega! I could feel the property value of my co-op shrinking as I stood there, gaping at this anomaly. What’s next? Denny’s?
My corner bodega is called Zabar’s and many people would protest that it, too, does not qualify as a real bodega. But they’re just being picky: it’s on the corner (sort of); it carries milk – from cows, from sheep, from goats, from soy, from almonds; 1% milk, 2% milk, whole milk, half-and-half, whipping cream, heavy cream, sour cream, cream cheese, crème fraiche – and others, I’m sure. And although the original Zabar’s Mom and Pop were Jewish and came from Eastern Europe rather than from Central or South America, Korea, Thailand or China, they were immigrants finding their way into American society by opening a little food store on the corner – a bodega – or schmodega, if you prefer.
The heart of the Wasteland.
The great thing about Zabar’s – the thing that made me choose my apartment within walking distance of this extraordinary outlet – is that they offer the best and freshest of everything. They’re not a real market like Fairway or Whole Foods, but a dedicated foodie will always be able find what he or she needs. For example, Zabar’s doesn’t have ten different brands of San Marzano tomatoes like Fairway does, but the canned tomatoes they have are top-notch, Italian and D.O.P. There aren’t aisles dedicated to hundreds of different almond butters like Whole Foods has; Zabar’s has one almond butter. It’s called Yum and it is. And when I can’t find Treviso radicchio at Fairway, chances are Zabar’s is stocking it. It’s uncanny what you can find there in a pinch - and “in a pinch” is exactly what a good bodega is all about.
Just had breakfast at Zabar’s and brought back cheese and two free coffee mugs sporting Zabar’s for registering my e-mail! Yeah! Excellent!
LOVE LOVE LOVE Zabar’s and I can’t cook! HA! I go in for food then upstairs and buy things that are so neat but I may never use. Egads that’s one wonderful store. Visit Zabar’s every time I come to the city – from Vancouver, CANADA!
I agree. Zabar’s is divine. And Zabar’s Cafe is my very favorite spot. Great coffee and great tuna fish and altogether great soups and sandwiches. But… re bodegas, check out Manny’s on 93rd/94th & Columbus, a truly neighborhood grocery. Owned by a Greek/Greek-American family who are very in tune with the tastes of the neighborhood.
If you need/hanker for something, they will order it! Very old-fashioned and very neighborhood.
You are lucky you have the diversity of many different types of “Bodega’s” I live upstate NY (in the country) and the “one and only” place we have when I get a hankering for something sweet or different is a little grocery store called “Pecks”, not a single “foreigner” in sight unless you consider living in the next town over being a “foreigner”. Noone making tabouli or tahini just straight forward groceries that you need to use your imagination to savor the flavor of another mans labor!
Total agreement about Zabar’s being a New Yorker’s dream of a bodega – but, yes, the real one, the TRUE one, is Manny’s. Mike – you NEED Manny’s in your life. Better than therapy. Not as good as Umbria.
There’s no place like Zabar’s. It’s a one-of-a-kind. It came first before all the fancy schmanzy places. The heavenly breads. The wonderful coffees. The cheeses. And the gadgets…every inch of the second floor is stocked with kitchen and cooking must haves from all over the world! A first-class NYC treasure not to be missed.
@ all – I’m off to check out Manny’s today
I love Mike, AND bodegas, but sometimes you’ve just gotta have a Slurpee, and those come from 7-11, so be kind. I was never an Upper West guy, but Dean & DeLuca (the one in the Village on 6th ave.) is/was aSTOUNDing…..
@- Pavel – Thanks for writing – and have a great trip.
What is Manny’s? Dying to know…
@ Anne Marie – Manny’s is a wonderful market on 94th St. and Columbus
i am arriving in nyc on the 4/9 at 5:40am on the redeye from la. i hope to be at zabars by 8am for breakfast and coffee. i hope to see conrad and the team.
zabars is absolutely the best. i have visited the city on a few occasions and this is the ultimate foodie location. i will be there most days during my three week stay.
stephen from dungog, australia
How lucky we are that you consider Zabar’s your bodega! We’ve always considered ourselves a neighborhood store – for those nearby and those New Yorkers who have moved away. Thanks for the thoughtful post, we’ve shared it with our blog readers too!
- Zabar’s