How much bacon do you feel like today?
I had a cooking breakthrough this past week that I want to share with you. Because Jill is eating more and more veganly and handling a lot of her own shopping and preparation, I end up cooking a lot of dishes for myself. And I’m finding this has liberated me in a number of ways.
Instead of measuring or checking the recipe for amounts, I just say to myself, “How much of that do I feel like today?” And I throw in just that much. Without having to worry about this person’s salt problem, that person’s meat problem, this person’s wheat allergy, that person’s fat phobia – my dishes are turning out just the way I like them. A recent carbonara is a perfect example:
Carbonara is an emotional dish – it’s bacon and eggs, on pasta, with cheese, with lots of black pepper. One theory is that the name “carbonara,” which means, “in the style of the coal-workers” really comes from the fact that the black pepper scattered on top looks like coal dust. I’m going with that theory. I think a lot of pepper makes this dish.
Allora.
Assemble the ingredients:
Ingredients
- Spaghetti – just enough for me – 120 grams – about a quarter-pound;
- Olio – just a touch;
- Bacon – guanciale, of course from Norcia or, best of all, from my friend and butcher, Ugo; as much as you want;
- Eggs – for me, only one egg yolk – fresh from a local chicken
- Cheese – pecorino stagionato – that means the seasoned pecorino – hard for grating. It’s salty and powerful and many good cooks believe it’s the crucial ingredient in a carbonara – una mancia – a nice handful;
- Onion – This is blasphemy. Most people don’t put any onion in carbonara. I like it. And, going against every Italian recipe book, instead of slicing it thinly, I leave it in nice sized chunks. It’s the way I like it.
- Pepper – fresh-ground black pepper – used liberally;
In the pan
1. Put a large pot of water on a high flame. The dish can be made while it’s coming to boil.
2. Slice the guanciale into bite-sized pieces; chunk the onion; grate the cheese;
3. Separate the yolk, mix it in a bowl with the cheese and a little pasta water; stir with a fork; grate a lot of pepper into it;
And in the bowl.
4. In a sauté pan, heat a tbsp. of olive oil and throw in the guanciale; when it crisps up, add the onion; saute until the onion gives it up – maybe two minutes; add a half-ladle of water from the pasta pot to the sauté pan;
5. When the pasta’s done, drain it and add it to the pan, leaving it a bit wet; toss for a while with a wooden spoon; add the egg, cheese and pepper mixture and continue to toss;
6. When it all creams up, grate more pepper than you think is right over the top. It’s right.
I LOVE A GOOD CARBONARA AND YOUR RECIPE AND EXPLINATION IS PERFECT FOR ME TO TRY AND MAKE IT MYSELF. THANKS FOR YOUR RECIPE AND HELP.
JAY
Oh, thank you SO much for this recipe, Mike! I can’t wait to try it and will let you know how it turns out. I hope Jill at least enjoys a taste of it! Happy holidays to you both.
Sounds wonderful, thanks for sharing. I think you should talk to Jill about writing about her Vegan lifestyle. I would love to hear how she came to the decision to become vegan, what types of food she prepares, etc.
…also when in Rome you must try the carbonara at Hosteria Romana on Via Rasella. They are famous for it. Delizioso!
Carbonara is is my weakness. Incredible creamy pasta with pecorino and parmesano formaggio and the pancetta, yum. Make usre you temper the eggs a little with the pasta water so they don’t curdle.
Also, Carbonara Roma–con green peas [piselli verdi] (honest, and it’s good).
Molto Buono!
Just heard that old woman walking through that little village was so upset when she read you put onions in the carbonara she just died from a stroke.
yum. you got me crying over here….
Here, here to cooking exactly what you like.
Power to the people!
@ – Jay, Wynne, Sherry, David, David L., Genie and Anna – I want you all to try it and let me know how it is. Use pancetta if you can’t find guanciale. Buona fortuna!
still reading your book…loving it….have a question…when you are cooking meat over your fire indoors what happens to all the juices and grease…does it just fall on the fire or do you have to collect it?…just curious….
@ Debbie – It falls onto the coals – not a problem. I haven’t had any flare-ups.
Ah, I love the onion too! Thanks for the delicious advice…salivating and inspired over here in HollywoodLand…
We are making this for the second time. It’s deliciouso.
We are making this for the second time. It’s fantastic.
It’s Michael Tuckerish!
@ Robin – So you made it a second time a second time?