STAGE DOOR PIGGY

Stage-door Piggy

Stage-door Piggy

My favorite thing about Jill being a working actress is that I get to be a Stage Door Johnny. I have it timed out perfectly to arrive at the theater ten minutes after the curtain call, just as Jill is emerging from the dressing room to greet her adoring fans. I stand proudly in the background and give her all the space she needs to receive her accolades, and then when she’s fully feted, we all go out to eat and drink. This is my favorite moment in show business; it’s why I became an actor to begin with.

And because Jill is doing her play at Ars Nova, a wonderful theater that’s so far west on 54th Street it’s almost in New Jersey, I get to check out the restaurants and bars in a whole new neighborhood, which maybe we can call Hell’s Kitchen Extended. It’s essentially 10th Avenue in the Fifties. Have no fear – I’ve already found two fantastic places, destination places. Well, they’d have to be – who casually strolls down 10th Avenue in the middle of the night?
…………………………………………….Il Melograno
This could turn out to be one of my favorite Italian restaurants in the city. That’s a big statement, I know, but I have very particular criteria and Il Melograno and its owner-chef, Alberto Tartari, meet my standards in fine fashion. It’s real, number one. You can smell Italy when you walk through the door. Number two, we can montepulciano_d-abruzzospeak Italian with the owner and he’s gracious enough to pretend we do it well. That’s big for us. Alberto comes from Brescia in the north of Italy. He had a fine restaurant there until he came to the New World to seek his fortune. He imports his products from Italy – except for the freshest ingredients he finds locally. Jill’s desire after a show is the freshest of greens and veg and Il Melograno delivers. They will also substitute whole-wheat pasta and that suit’s Jill as well. My pasta was extremely satisfying – bucatini alla ciociara. That name was new to me, so I researched it. I think it comes from Ciociaria, which is a region southeast of Rome, northeast of Naples. I researched twenty-two recipes and they were all completely different. Alberto’s features pancetta – smoked, I believe, cut into dice and sautéed with onions; tomato sauce; oregano, maybe. Anyway, it was perfect with a glass (or two) of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
……………………………………………..Ardesia
ArdesiaOn 52nd Street, between 10th and 11th, — a mostly residential block without all that much street life — Ardesia glows like a briquette. On the advice of knowledgeable friends, we headed over there after the show last Thursday night to get a drink and maybe a bite and … wow. First of all, it was packed – with well-dressed, nice-looking people, making a buzz. We lowered the level, I thought, bohos that we are. But the host welcomed us warmly, anyway.
Ardesia is a wine bar with food, which can mean many things. In this case, with the talents of co-owner Mandy Oser and chef Amorette Casaus, it means a very high level enterprise, indeed. Mandy’s day job is working side-by-side with Eric Ripert at Le Bernadin; Amorette made her reputation at El Quinto Pino; together they’ve created the perfect wine bar synergy. A wine bar is about pouring wine that one might not get to taste every day – that’s the fun of it – and Ardesia has one of the city’s most enticing and approachable lists, many available by the glass. It’s separated into Old World and New World and draws from pretty much everywhere. There’s a good list of bubbly, as well, and an offering of beers. The food can be described the same way – enticing and

Photo: Joshua Bright Photography

sausages and brussels

approachable. And fun. From pretzels and mustard to deviled eggs with crispy chicken skin to a duck banh mi to a cheese selection to a plate of her house-made charcuterie, Amorette Casaus’s menu offers a tasty palette for food/wine combinations. We stuck with the specials the night we were there – a farm-fresh salad for Jill with lemon, avocado dressing and chicken sliders for me, with all sorts of piquant flavors hidden under the bun. Delicious with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc from the Alto Adige.
And all at great prices, too.
No wonder the place is packed.

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9 Responses to STAGE DOOR PIGGY

  1. Marc Flanagan says:

    Mikey,
    It’s not named Hell’s Kitchen for nothing.

  2. Sal Runfola says:

    Have you been to Crispo on 14th Street near 7th Avenue?
    You walk under the “stoop” and ask for a table in the rear yard. Best to make reservations first. If it’s a nice night, they will open the roof and you’ll be eating under the stars (almost!…this is New York…so don’t go dreaming).
    Order the hanger steak….the best!
    Just so you know, the heavy metal doors are not from an old time butcher shop, they were actually made for the restaurant. Notice the open doors on your left when you walk in…they are made for that archway by a metal working friend of the owner. When you go to the men’s room, you might think it was an old refrigerator for dead meat….it’s not…it is designed to give that impression.
    And explore the collection of old time, manually driven, meat slicers on the steel racks in the rear yard. Cool stuff!
    Sal Runfola

  3. Gail Walter says:

    Michael,
    You must come south to sample the wonderful food at Pasta Plus in Laurel, Md.!Not all wonderful Italian food is in NYC or Italy!!! Max and his brother, Sabatino, came here to provide us with the best of the best!!! Pasta Plus is an institution in the Baltimore-Washington corridor, standing room only for obvious reasons!!! Please check out Pasta Plus. It is a treasure for those of us who can’t always make it to NYC!
    Gail Walter

  4. Deborah Horn says:

    So, pleased to discover your blog. As a community relations manager for a B&N, I get the ARCs of upcoming books. I loved Living in a Foreign Language. Yet it was with trepidation that I shared it with my customers. You were, after all, pulling back the curtain on our secret. I selfishly wanted all those tourists to continue chasing the Tuscan sun and remain unaware of my beloved Umbria.

  5. Mike says:

    @ Deborah — I love your blog, too. Where are you in Umbria?
    @ Gail — Pasta Plus it is!
    @ Sal — Thanks for the tip. We’ll try it. So many restaurants, so little time.
    @ Marc — Yeah, it’s not Hell’s powder room, is it?

  6. JoJo says:

    I researched the word Ciociara a while back. Turns out to be slang for women from the mountains east of Rome – from the local name for the clogs they used to wear. The Italian name for the film “Two Women” with Sophia Loren is “La Ciociara” because her character comes from that area and it’s the place Loren and her daughter escape to when the World War II bombing of Rome commences. And, by the way, your Italian accountant, Stefania Carmagnola, is una Ciociara

  7. Ah Mike,
    Another delightful chapter from your love story of food and Jill.

    Ciao,
    Carol

  8. Deborah Horn says:

    Are you familiar with the 416 – the road that runs south-east from just north of Umbertide to the northern shore of Lago Trasimeno? It goes through Nicconi and Mercatale. Just a couple of kms east of Nicconi is a road that leads sharply up to a hilltop village called Borgo d’ Montemigiano. It is a tiny little hamlet of seven houses with a chapel and no retail services. Very peaceful.

  9. Mike says:

    @ JoJo — I looked up the word on my Google translator and came up with Two Women. I was baffled. Thank you for the explanation. So what you’re saying is a Ciociara is a woman with a big set of clogs?

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