AFTER THE GIANTS GAME –REDUX

grande blu di patate

This week’s playoff game occurred on the very day of our son Max’s 30th birthday, which complicated things for the old Couch Potato. I couldn’t very well opt out of the party for a sporting event that was a complete non-event for everyone else in the family – especially for Max’s mom, my beloved wife, for whom a football game is thought of as an opportunity to go through her closet.
Jill planned a beautiful day for Max. It’s a big birthday for both of them — she was, after all, as much a participant in the event thirty years ago as he was, having been in labor together for twenty-nine-hours.
You don’t forget a thing like that.
Max had mentioned a few weeks before that he was getting into classical music again (Max is a musician), so Jill scored three tickets to a concert at Merkin Hall on 67th Street – with members of the New York Philharmonic playing. I was the holder of the third ticket. The concert started at 3:00; kickoff was 4:30. And we were booked for a 6:30 dinner with Alison and Shannon joining us. Between the two events, I would miss most of the game. The obvious answer was TIVO, but I can’t get interested in a game that’s already over – even if I don’t know who won.
Over is over.
I started my negotiations early, casually mentioning that the Giants play-off game was starting at 4:30, but that it was okay, my son’s 30th birthday surely took precedence. I would be happy, I said, to miss the game.
Now Jill was guilty. Step one.
An hour later, Jill started calling Max. He had been up for something like 40 straight hours over the weekend, playing a gig on Friday night until around 2:00 A.M. and then deciding to just stay up until 4:30A.M. to start his Saturday deliveries. He’s drives a truck to support his music. Anyway, the truck wouldn’t start in the cold, he had to get a tow, etc. It turned into an all-night, all-day mess and now, on Sunday, his birthday, he was properly sleeping it off.
“All I’m getting is his answering machine,” said Jill, getting nervous. “I don’t think he’s going to make the concert. And you want to watch the game. I feel like an idiot.” “No, baby, I’ll go to the concert with you. You said we should hear more good music, so we’ll do it.”
“You’ll fall asleep.”
Well, she had me there. There something in classical music that stimulates an area in my cortex – the lower, lower cortex, actually – that I find very spiritually relaxing. I’m special that way.
“The game doesn’t start until 4:30,” I said. “Why don’t I first-act the concert and leave at intermission?”
“What about Max’s ticket?”
“Maybe he’ll show. You never know.”
Then Alison called about dinner.
“You know, Shannon will want to see the end of the game. Could we make Max’s birthday dinner later? Like 8:00?”
Perfect. We could. We did. We ate at Recipe, on Amsterdam Avenue and 82nd Street, a wonderful addition to our neighborhood. Recipe specializes in comfort food of a very high level – lots of wonderful stews and roasts with locally-grown braised root vegetables in the winter. Jill had the pumpkin gnocchi with root vegetables. The boys had the lamb chops with lentils, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, etc.
Alison went for the short ribs.
Jill enjoyed the concert as best she could. There was an empty chair to her right (Max’s), a snoring husband to her left and three unruly children behind her, one of whom was kicking the back of her chair all through the Mozart. She’s always had amazing concentration.

The Giants won big.
As a former cheesehead, I will not gloat.

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AFTER THE GIANTS GAME

It occurred to me the other day that I cook primarily by eye.
It occurred to me the other day that I cook primarily by eye. If a thing looks right, it’s usually right. I suppose other cooks depend on their taste buds or their nose or the touch of their finger, but I seem to be an eye guy. This all came up when I was sautéing some brussels sprouts last Sunday after the Giants game.
Jill and I set out for the farmers’ market on Columbus Avenue around noon. I knew I wouldn’t make it back in time for the kickoff, but if I miss some of the pre-game hype, that’s a plus for me. I figured we’d shop with the farmers, Jill would scamper off to the park for a walk and I’d sneak back with the groceries and set up in front of the TV around the middle of the first quarter. It was a perfect Sunday plan – especially because the Giants won.
The farmers were winterly sparse, as expected, but the brussels sprouts looked like they were the deal of the day. I got a bagful of the sprouts, some shiitake mushrooms, a few big, dirty radishes and a leek or two. I was all set to make Jill a vegan pasta after the game. Well, after the second game, which was Pittsburgh vs. Denver.
I cleaned the brussels, stripped off the outer leaves and sliced them in half vertically. Then I flash-fried them – cut-side down first – in olive oil that I had infused with a clove of garlic as it was heating up. Here’s where my eye came in: the sprouts caramelize very quickly in the hot oil; I didn’t want them to get black but on the other hand, I didn’t want any hardness in them. It was all about the look – a little char, but still glistening with toothy succulence.
Then I hot sautéed the shiitakes and put them aside with the brussels sprouts. In the big pan where I would eventually assemble the pasta, I slowed sautéed the peeled and thinly sliced radishes and the chiffonaded leeks with a clove of minced garlic. I used a farro pasta that I find at Eataly. When it was done perfectly, I drained it but not completely — leaving a little water in it to give the pasta a creamy look I stirred the pasta into the radishes and leeks and tossed on the brussels sprouts and shiitake mushrooms – a feast for a vegan king! Or queen.

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TWO MEALS

The holidays are over! Now I can trim my sails, get off the party circuit, eat less, exercise more and whip myself into shape!

Yeah, dream on, fatso. It never stops. Today we’re booked for two meals – lunch with some friends from out of town and pizza later with the kids. If I’m lucky I’ll only gain three or four pounds.
We first met Julia and Christian in Vienna when we went for the opening of Carol Venezia’s photography show. They’re now in New York for a week with their kids, so we called the Venezias and asked if they wanted to join us for lunch. The six of us went to Danji, which I’ve written about before. I wanted our out-of-town guests to have a New York experience – a restaurant that serves food that they could never find in their hometown of Salzburg. Danji fills the bill. It’s basically Korean food, but cooked with remarkable imagination and flair. This was my fourth visit and I’m sure there will be many more.
We started with the crispy tofu with ginger and scallion – one of the great dishes in all of New York. The texture of this tofu – not so different from perfectly rendered sweetbreads – has a narcotic effect –the more you taste, the more you want. From there we went to sliders – both beef and pork belly – crispy calamari, pork noodles … and on and on. Not a diet lunch.
For dinner, we went back to another old favorite of this blog – Capizzi on Ninth Avenue between 40th and 41st. I love this place – for the pizza certainly, but also for the décor, the friendly service and the great selection of Italian wines.
I’ve long held that there are only two kinds of pizza – good and bad. New York has plenty of both. Good pizza starts with great crust, which is the very soul of pizza. It has a bit of char from a wood or coal- burning oven; it has a bit of chew; it has a bit of crunch; it has a bit of yeasty odor rising up as it’s removed from the intense heat of the oven; it has a bit of salt – don’t forget salt. That’s a great crust.

capizzi's pizza

From there, it’s all about the freshness and authenticity of the various toppings – mozzarella made fresh on the day, sauce made from the best San Marzano tomatoes, house-made sausage and salume, garden-fresh herbs and vegetables. Plopping on old, stale toppings can ruin even the best of crusts.
And that’s about it. Pizza is simple – but like many simple things, it’s not easy. Capizzi knows what they’re doing. Give it a try.

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THE SEVEN FISHES

We had friends and family over to celebrate La Vigilia, which is a traditional Christmas Eve feast that had its beginnings in the south of Italy. It celebrates the wait for the birth of baby Jesus. Vigilia – the wait. Traditionally the meal is comprised of seven fish dishes – including shellfish, of course – and it can be one of the great feasts of the year. It can be a blowout, actually, un cenone, which means a very large and very long dinner.
We decided to go another way. Yes, we would do the seven fishes but we would take it easy on ourselves – just three courses instead of seven – plus dessert at the end, of course — and we split up the work load between four cooks: myself, the eminent Don Michele di Sicilia, our daughter, Alison and her beau, Shannon. So it was a kind of BYOF – bring your own fishes.
We had twelve people for dinner. We started with one of my favorite appetizers – anchovies on sweet-buttered bread. That’s it – as simple as you can get, but the combination of the briny fish and the sweet butter is one of the great single bites of all time. We served that with chilled prosecco for the boozers and Perrier with lime for the teetotalers. There was also a bowl of cheddar cheese goldfish to reinforce the theme.
Then we sat down to the first course – a perfect plate of frutta di mare – marinated seafood — cooked to perfection by Don Michele. There was gamberi, calamari, scungili, polpa, vongole, cozze e capesante – that’s shrimp, squid, conch, octopus, mussels and bay scallops – each species cooked separately so that they retained their individual taste and texture. As cooked by Don Michele, this is one of the world’s great dishes.
Next was my spaghetti vongole.
Since I’ve already given you the secrets of this dish, I won’t bore you again. It went down well.
The main dish was roasted branzino with leeks and Meyer lemons, elegantly prepared by Shannon. He promised to give me the recipe.
Dessert was a scrumptious pecan tart in the shape of a fish to close out our theme dinner.
As always, once the food started coming, everyone started to dig in and completely forget to take any more photos. We apologize for this lack of visual support. The few we do have were taken by the eminent Carol Venezia.

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